Jonah grew up above a butcher's shop in Leeds and spent his first wages on a knife. He cooked in London, Copenhagen and a farmhouse outside Lyon before taking the lease on Marrow Lane in 2022, with forty seats, an open kitchen and no gas.

The fire

Everything that can be cooked over oak is. The grill was built for the room by a blacksmith in Hackney and it takes an hour to come up to heat, which is why the kitchen starts at three.

The market

The menu is written on Monday from what came in that morning: a bream from the day boats, girolles from a man in Fife, the first datterini. If it is not on the list, it was not good enough this week.

The room

Forty seats, one sitting, no music louder than the kitchen. The counter is the best seat in the house and we keep two of its stools for people who just walk in.